Rio Carnival is the result of months of preparation. Foreign visitors alone number around 300,000 every year, and the parading samba schools are continuous streams of colour, motion and rhythm. Some have members running into thousands, with as many as 30 floats each and hundreds of drummers. The synchronised steps, swirls and rhythms are faultless.

Every samba school strives to win the favour of the crowds and whip the onlookers into a frenzy of singing and dancing. Judges at strategic points along the carnival route grade the contestants on everything from enthusiasm, discipline and costume to rhythm and dance.

There are two classes of samba schools: those which parade on the Avenida Rio Branco and those at the Sambadrome. The former are considered less prestigious, but are top quality nonetheless. They're also free. The best views are from the cadeiras (ground level terrace seats), the arquibancadas (terrace seats) and the camarotes (boxes). Boxes are recommended if you pick one of the better viewing areas, which are 4, 7 and 11, but the terraces are more raucous. There are also bandstands for public dancing and a selection of carnival balls around the city.

Tickets for the Sambadrome can usually be reserved through most good tour operators. This is a big event, however, and it's often oversubscribed and expensive. On the other hand, there are plenty of other things going on in the city during the Rio Carnival which don't involve breaking the bank.

Backpackers and those on a tight budget might also prefer the "alternative" carnival that takes place in the Lapa district in the southern corner of Rio's city centre. Here a stage is erected in front of the famous Arcos de Lapa (the Lapa aqueduct), and bands of all styles play every night.