Massive land snails slide slowly across the narrow paths leaving thick trails of slime. Foot-long millipedes writhe over tree trunks. Lemurs stare at you with mild amusement as you struggle along beneath your backpacks, sometimes coming closer to get a better look. Chameleons try to camouflage themselves, but can be found with a bit of concentration.

The trails, which are often faint and confused, wind through the trees or scramble up the steep limestone rock formations which have been eroded into bizarre shapes over the years. From viewpoints on the ridges, hikers can look out over hundreds of limestone needles, which give the reserve its "lost world" feeling. Beneath your feet are miles and miles of caves and underground rivers. At night swarms of bats and flying foxes swoop in the darkness, while the rivers are home to strange albino crocodiles.

Ankarana is an adventure. Hiking in the jungle is not all lemurs and happiness. Temperatures are high and for much of the year visitors need to carry all of their drinking water. There are also wasps and scorpions to deal with.

Some companies arrange trips into Ankarana, but it is also possible to arrange your own trip from Antsiranana, the nearest town. There is a campsite at the entrance to the reserve, but very little else in the way of facilities, so visitors need to bring in all of their food and equipment. The best time of year to visit is during the dry season, from April to November.