The collection consists of treasures once belonging to the French monarchy and aristocracy, boosted by Napoleonic plundering. The treasures are now organised in departments including Sculptures, and Paintings and Prints. Sculptures includes some rather famous pieces such as Michelangelo's Slaves and Canova's Cupid and Psyche.

The painting department, the most breathtaking of the lot, covers 14th-19th-century Europe and contains the most famous painting in the world, Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa (1503-1506). In 2005 she was relocated to a spacious, temperature-controlled room, allowing space to breath among the six million visitors that come here each year to glimpse her enigmatic smile.

With the exception of the odd brilliant David in the USA, the Louvre has all the best French Neo-Classical and Romantic art. Empire image-makers David and Ingres dominate the 18th- and 19th-century rooms. David's The Oath of the Horati is there, while Ingres is represented by The Turkish Bath. The big Delacroix canvases are in the same room, including Liberty leading the People.

Any description of the Louvre's wonders can only be personal - they are so various and so many. Select a department and visit in short bursts. It's free on the first Sunday of each month - so go then if you are crowd tolerant. Cafes are ubiquitous, though expensive.

Over the last decade, millions of euros have been lavished on refurbishing this cultural symbol of a nation, including the construction of a dazzling (and controversial) glass pyramid in the forecourt. New galleries are still opening - the government aims to make the Louvre a museum to beat all others.