Sumo is one of Japan's most popular sports, steeped in legend, history and ceremony. To the outsider it can seem like a mere battle of strength and power, but it should be remembered that this is a sport with over 70 different manoeuvres and forms. Only when these are mastered will the wrestler stand a chance of becoming a Yokuzuna (grand champion).

As a spectacle Sumo is amazing. The men are giants, and in front of a packed house, they attempt to eject each other from the four-and-a-half metre circle or throw each other to the hard clay floor. The backdrop to the action provides constant reminders of the history and reverence of the occasion, from the Gyoji's (referee's) fan - a sign of authority - to the symbolic salt scattering before each contest.

The best seats in the house are those situated closest to the dohyo (the ring), but be warned, these are extremely difficult to get hold of. The large arena provides many seating alternatives, however, ranging from a simple cushion in the isu-seki (balcony) to a box-seki (similar to a corporate box) in the Kokugikan at the back. Tickets can be purchased in advance (early August onwards) or on the day.